6-TRINIDAD
Pues en Trinidad no apareciste tampoco, ”mi amol”… Y mira que estaba lleno.
¿O es que hacían tantísimo ruido los músicos que ahogaban mi canto de cristal?
¿Y qué quieres que te diga de esta ciudad?
Eso de que haya que conservar los cantos rodados del siglo XVI, tal cual, sin pasarles, cada cincuenta años, una apisonadora para que se vayan recolocando, lo han superado hasta en mi pueblo, que los tenía iguales. Es muy típico, pero demasiado incómodo.
Claro que, si es condición sine qua non te concedan el premio de Patrimonio de la Humanidad, dejémoslo estar.
Esto iba yo pensando cuando, al salir de la estación, y con mi maleta recién estrenada, me vi que me volvía a quedar sin ruedas con semejante pavimento.
Menos mal que llegó la Damari, con mucho remango, y me la cogió aúpas hasta que llegamos a la casa, que está muy cerca del centro: es un apartamentito con cocina y todo, en un piso alto, junto a la azotea.
Cuando quisimos arreglarnos un poco para salir, me di cuenta de que había pedido la llave del candado de la maleta. Damari me consoló diciendo que su marido es un manitas y, en un momento venía y lo solucionaba.
Pero el marido manitas no llegó. Se me ocurrió llamar al vecino de enfrente, que estaba albañileando en su terraza, y se presentó con un manojo de llaves, entre las que había una que abrió el misterio. Le di las gracias y cinco cuc, que equivalen a una semana de trabajo, lo que hizo feliz, porque el buen hombre- Miguel se llama- no me quiso cobrar nada por el servicio.
Por supuesto, me regaló la llavecita. Así de majos son los cubanos.
Por Trinidad hemos pateado mucho. En zapatillas, naturalmente.
Es un lugar emblemático, que recuerda el tiempo de la colonia. Y la Revolución, que tiene sus más y sus menos con esta época, que fue la que forjó a Cuba, cuándo le conviene la oculta y otras veces la explota.
Trinidad es muy bonito pero muy pueblo: te levantas oyendo cantar a los gallos – también te los encuentras picoteando por las calles- mientras tomas un zumo en un patio desde la que se pueden alcanzar los cocos del corral inmediato, y te acuestas escuchando al panadero ambulante que anuncia, a grandes voces: ¡“pan caribeño”!
Porque nosotros nos acostábamos temprano. Piensa que éramos tres jubiladitos, que, por muy marchosos que nos creamos, ya no estamos para trasnochar.
Junto a la casa de Damari teníamos una sala de fiestas, de esas que cuentan los turistas jóvenes que son tan superguays y se liga tanto con cubanos macizones como tú, Siboney de mis sueños.
Nosotros ni las catamos: la sala de fiestas aneja terminaba a las 22, 30, la hora en que nuestros padres nos hacían llegar a casa en nuestras mocedades, y cuando hoy aun no han salido los chavales españoles para su botellón.
La vida de los jóvenes aquí se parece mucho a la que teníamos en España hace cincuenta años, con la excepción de que todos andan colgados de su “celular”, que, por otra parte, no sé cómo se pueden pagar, con los sueldos miserables que tienen.
Y, una de las cosas que nos han dejado traslucir las madres, cuando nos hablaban de ese futuro más actualizado y con más posibilidades, que todos ansían, es que temen que la modernidad les vaya a traer la droga, como efecto colateral que, ahora parece, solo está al alcance de la gente que maneja mucho dinero.
Se saben necesitados, pero se sienten seguros respecto a perversiones exteriores, y agresiones como las islamistas, por ejemplo.
Estas cuestiones evolutivas tienen muchos matices, que no siempre contemplan los estudiosos: los cubanos, que han cambiado una pobreza absoluta por otra relativa, y que están orgullosos de su país, dónde son gratuitas la enseñanza y la medicina -de lo que presumen continuamente-, y dónde todos los viejos disfrutan de pensión, aunque sea de 8 €, se han ido acomodando a una supervivencia frugal, y al trapicheo para llegar a fin de mes, trabajando lo estrictamente indispensable, ya que el trabajo no supone subir de estatus. Siempre llenos de miedo a contravenir la ley y siempre buscando el resquicio para aprovecharse de ella, procurando trabajar lo menos posible para un gobierno que, mal o bien, les va a cuidar en la vejez.
El miedo de las madres a que sus hijos se malogren de una manera, para ellas inédita, es muy, pero que muy justificable.
Y yo las entiendo.
Es curioso que los chavales cubanos estén divididos en dos grupos, muy significativos: Unos son de Cristiano y otros de Messi. Y siguen con verdadero entusiasmo las fluctuaciones de la Liga española. El que tiene oportunidad se hace con una camiseta de su equipo, que luce ostentosamente. Sabían del fútbol español mucho más que nosotros.
El lugar emblemático de Trinidad es “La Casa de La Música”.
Esta Casa de la Música forma parte de una escalinata, también de cantos rodados, pero en moderno, que se va expandiendo hacia la Plaza Mayor, donde se encuentran la Iglesia, y que está flanqueada por bares donde te sirven una “canchancha”, que es un daiquiri con un toque trinitario, muy rico, por cierto… y ¡Oh cielos!… se toca continuamente música caribeña..
La verdad es que no entiendo cómo el Ayuntamiento, o la Junta o como se llame quién organiza el cotarro en la ciudad, ha tenido la idea de colocar en éste único lugar de la ciudad el punto wifi: es imposible escuchar nada con la música tan estridente. Así que, claro: los cubanos se han acostumbrado a hablar a gritos… y eso que en España no somos modelo de suavidad tonal, como los mexicanos, por ejemplo, que me dan envidia de lo bajito que hablan.
La Casa de la Música me recordaba a la Plaza de España, de Roma, salvando las distancias, la primera vez que la vi, con los hippies sentados en las escaleras y cantando; solo que ésta, en criollo.
En un momento de relax, apareció, en las escaleras, un cantante local muy famoso, medio loco y medio borracho, que cambiaba las letras de canciones conocidas por sátiras en contra del gobierno, con gran regocijo de los nativos, que tienen su retranca y le jaleaban para que siguiera.
Parece que la policía ya ha dado por perdida la guerra con él y lo ha convertido en otra atracción más, para que vean los forasteros la enorme liberalidad del gobierno, que no parece utilizar con otras protestas por parte de disidentes, a los que tiene encarcelados. Además de la magnífica plaza, con sus barandillas y sus bancos de hierro colado y sus palmas reales, Trinidad ofrece al turista variados palacios, que tuvieron alma en los tiempos remotos de la Independencia, y los más remotos de la Colonia, que data de 1515.
En uno de ellos, el Palacio Iznaga, de nombre más bien euskaldún , amén de las maravillas propias de todos estos edificios, que asombran por sus dimensiones, su acabado, y su buena conservación, una guía, blanquirroja como yo, y de apellido Madariaga, nada sospechoso, me enseñó una pieza de cocina que ya la quisieran en el Museo Vasco: una olla exprés del año 1885 fabricada en Bilbao. O sea, cuando Trinidad y Bilbao formaban parte del mismo país o nación o estado, que eso una no lo tiene muy claro.
¡Anda ya!
Así, cualquiera. No solamente tuvo Cuba el ferrocarril 20 años antes que la metrópoli sino también la olla Magefesa, versión hierro fundido. Eso, que yo sepa.
Como yo, cuando voy de exploración, me fijo en lo que suele pasar desapercibido a la mayoría de los visitantes, me di cuenta, enseguida de un mantel espléndido, con muchas lavaduras, por cierto- había una mesa puesta como para ser utilizada en el momento, con una vigilante, que no te quitaba ojo, por si birlabas un tenedor- bordado con calado canario.
Y, ahora, en la distancia, le estoy dando vueltas a un asunto que me trae a mal traer desde hace bastantes años. Ya sé que no viene a cuento el tema, pero quiero echarle el guante a alguna investigadora futura.
Palacio Iznaga… la Madariaga que me cuenta la historia de la olla exprés… calado canario… y ¡encaje de Tenerife!. El encaje de Tenerife -Siempre muy mal planchado, por cierto, lo que le quita su gracia- aparece hasta en el Palacio de los Generales de La Habana.
¡Eso es lo que yo buscaba!
Pues aquí va mi lance: Hace muchos años, teniendo yo una relación bastante intensa con el equipo de textil del Museo Vasco de Bilbao, me enseñaron un alba que procedía de una iglesia derruida, tejido en siglo XVII – venía bordada la fecha en el encaje-, que la profesional del museo dijo ser de bolillos.
(Tú ya sabes lo que es un alba, mi Siboney, pero si alguien que lea mi crónica no lo sabe, que lo busque en Wikipedia).
Pero, una, que tuvo que conocer todos los bordados, encajes, agremanes, puntos y obras de aguja, lanzadera o gancho, que para eso estudió en la época de Franco cuándo la mujer elegante era, ante todo, bordadora fina, le dijo que era de encaje de Tenerife. Que yo tengo una obrita hecha con mis propias manos y con el sello de la Escuela de Magisterio, porque era obligatoria para aprobar la asignatura “Labores”, con doña Angelita, que era un hueso.
En el siglo XVII es imposible que los nativos de las Canarias hubieran llegado a esa delicatessen encajera, mientras que la cultura vasca estaba más que cualificada para ello.
Mi pregunta es: ¿El llamado encaje de Tenerife es de origen vasco? ¿Qué influencia tuvo la comunidad vasca en la colonización de las islas Canarias?
De Canarias a Cuba no hay problemas, porque la interferencia ha sido continua. La misma madre de José Martí, el Padre de la Patria, que era canaria, le hizo a su hijo un gorrito -se conserva en su casa natal- con el tal encaje y un faldón con calado canario, que también puede ser vasco. O de Talavera. Vete tú a saber, que el deshilado tiene muchas patrias en la península.
Porque servidora, tiene unos conocimientos harto limitados de historia colonial. Y te juro, “mi amol”, que, con 20 años menos, yo me hago una tesis doctoral, aportando documentos en los que se demostrara cómo la mujeres de caserío se trasladaron a las islas, que fueron puente hacia América, con todo su saber a cuestas. Y allí lo dejaron.
¿Te das cuenta , Siboney de mis sueños, de lo pequeño que es el mundo?
¿Y lo corta que es la vida?
¡Con la de cosas que me voy a dejar sin aprender!
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