4 COPELIA

COPELIA

12 ENERO, JUEVES

Mira, Siboney, “mi amol”. Estos cubanos de ahora tienen mucho que aprender en cuestión de turismo.

Para empezar, la estación de autobuses para extranjeros- que esa es otra: los nativos viajan en unos vehículos y los turistas en otros mejores- está en el culo del mundo, en un barrio que se llama Nuevo Vedado y está formado por chalecitos, que, en su día, pertenecerían a una clase media acomodada y que ahora están habitados por funcionarios y militares, principalmente. En frente hay un zoológico.

Habíamos madrugado mucho y cogimos un taxi con Mía (10 cuc) que se quería ir a Trinidad. Aun no se había abierto la oficina de billetes, por lo que decidimos desayunar en un tugurio anejo a la estación, con la música a tope, y unas mesas altas imposibles de utilizar más que un momento.

Pues no había café. ¡En Cuba!

Desayunamos unos crepes ofrecidos por una camarera desangelada que nos dijo que llevaba 24 horas trabajando y no se tenía de pie. Gana 8 cuc al mes trabajando días alternos. Pese a que había media docena de empleados varones en la cocina- las chicas estaban para atender al público- tardaron muchísimo tiempo en servirnos.

Me parecieron unos “güevones”, como diría el difunto Chávez venezolano. Qué quieres que te diga.

Aprovechamos la espera para cambiar unos pesos convertibles (cuc), que son los que utilizamos los turistas por pesos nacionales, para uso del pueblo villano (cup). Con un cuc te dan 25 cup, por lo que los jubilados, cuando cobran sus 8 cuc de pensión, como suponen 200 cup, piensan que reciben algo.

Como no pertenezco al mundo de las finanzas, ignoro el juego que se trae el gobierno con esta duplicidad de monedas. Creo que los cubanos, también lo ignoran.

La empresa de autobuses regular nacional es Viazul y no tenía billetes nocturnos hasta Santiago, y poder hacer la ruta que nos había propuesto Rosa de viajar de noche hasta Oriente y volver replegándonos hasta La Habana, para pasar aquí los últimos días de vacaciones. Tuvimos que sacar un billete hasta Cienfuegos y, ya de paso, otro hasta Trinidad.

Era la hora de entrar en los trabajos, por lo que cogimos una guagua atestada de gente, que nos costó una miseria- menos mal que llevábamos pesos nacionales- y nos dejó junto al Cementerio de Colón, del que recorrimos tres de sus cuatro lados hasta dar con la puerta y donde casi se lleva por delante un camión a Juan, al que le pasó rozando. Menudo susto nos llevamos los tres.

Ya hubiera sido chiste morir en La Habana por atropello, dónde apenas hay tráfico ni semáforos y la velocidad de los vehículos es lentísima, con lo que la gente atraviesa las calles por donde quiere con toda tranquilidad.

Al llegar a la entrada del cementerio, echamos una ojeada y en vista de que no teníamos ningún difunto al que visitar,- Porque tú estás vivo, ¿verdad?- seguimos de largo hasta la plaza de la Revolución, con la intención de saludar a los allí representados.

En las paredes que unos edificios que asoman a un descampado enorme están las siluetas de El Che y Cienfuegos. Más arriba, en un alto, la Plaza de la Revolución, propiamente, presidida por el monumento a José Martí, Padre de la Patria, con una torre monumental que se ve desde todas partes. Supongo que allí se encontrará un grandísimo espacio preparado para manifestaciones patrióticas multitudinarias. Seguro que será dónde echaba Fidel sus arengas de cinco horas.

Como cobraban por entrar, y nosotros no somos de la cofradía, decidimos ver el paisaje desde lejos, que también tiene su encanto. Así que paseamos hasta la puerta de la Biblioteca Nacional donde se encuentra el parque móvil más curioso del mundo, con los Cadillac y los Dodge descapotables de los años 50, perfectamente pulidos, abrillantados, y mimados.

 

Los turistas se vuelven locos por darse un paseo en ellos.

Este camino está flanqueado por hermosísimos árboles, de troncos con raíces aéreas, que se merecen más atención que los monumentos y los coches.

Descansamos un rato y tomamos otra guagua, que nos dejó en el parque de Copelia, donde está la heladería más famosa de La Habana, que sale en la película “Fresa y Chocolate”.

Luego nos hemos ido dando cuenta de que Copelia es una empresa nacional- como todo- y existe en cualquier punto remoto del país.

También es de obligado cumplimiento pasarse por “La casa del chocolate” en cualquier pueblo de la isla. En el chocolate ya hay más variedad: desde helado, hasta caliente y con churros. Siempre riquísimo, como los helados de Copelia.

Decidimos que no procedía marcharnos sin probar uno. ¡Qué cola, había, madre!

Tardamos más de media hora esperando y observaba, mientras tanto, a los tipos guapetones, como habías de ser tú, Siboney de mis sueños, pero no te reconocí en ninguno. Mucho menos en el que controlaba una casetilla donde ponía “CORREOS” y únicamente se vendía el Gramma y algún que otro panfleto político.

No he visto absolutamente más prensa que la oficial. Ni en los hoteles de lujo. La censura intelectual es absoluta. Ni te cuento en las librerías: solo hay libros de escritores afines al régimen; ningún extranjero. Sin embargo, estos libros, editados por el estado, tienen un precio irrisorio. Yo compré tres por 3,50 cuc. ¡Todos!

¿Cómo va a tener la gente perspectiva y sentido crítico, por muy universitarios que sean?

Me acuerdo de cuando íbamos a París, en tiempos de Franco y traíamos, escondido, el Libro Rojo, de Mao, que era lo más subversivo que podíamos encontrar. Yo no lo leí. Pero lo traje camuflado, que es dónde estaba el morbo.

Es de esperar que, en Cuba, se lea bajo cuerda, como en tiempos de la Inquisición. Por eso hay disidentes.

En todos los restaurantes había músicos desgañitándose, que no producían tranquilidad para comer a gusto, así que comimos en un sitio de medio pelo, que no tenía “suministro” ni de café ni de pescado ni de postre… ¡ni músicos! Menos mal que tuvieron la delicadeza de bajar el volumen de la tele, que equivalía a la orquesta. Triste comida, que nos puso al corriente de la falta de materias primas elementales.

Supimos entonces que el 80% de lo que se consume en el país es de importación. La leche, por ejemplo, siempre en polvo, viene de Nueva Zelanda. Parece que los campos sin cultivar no deben de utilizarse ni para criar vacas.

Ya repuestos, y de camino hacia casa, paseamos por el Callejón de Hamel, que es un sitio muy loco, repleto de obras de arte supermodernas y de artistas innovadores, lleno de colorido y provocación. Está a un paso de la calle Oquendo, donde vive Rosa.

Susana se quedó en la cama después de la siesta y Juan y yo parlamentamos con Rosa, que está recibiendo quimio y le he regalado mogollón de medicinas que pensaba darle al sacerdote, hermano de una amiga, al que tenemos que visitar en Morón.

Rosa nos ha buscado las mesoneras de Cienfuegos y Trinidad y nos ha traído unos panecillos que le han dejado unos inquilinos que se le han ido, ya que mañana va a ser difícil encontrar comida antes de salir.

Llegamos a la habitación de Mía, que como tenía contrato de habitación compartida, estaba en otra zona de la casa y se vino a despedir muy amable. Nos volveremos a ver en Trinidad.

En lugar de Mía había unas argentinas que querían cenar y salí con ellas porque yo también tenía hambre. Ya estaba todo cerrado y menos mal que encontramos una pizzería en Carlos III. Una de ellas es abogada y la otra se dedica al teatro infantil. Se llama Lucía, con lo que comenzamos a tener gran afinidad y charlamos durante la cena. Ellas, que son jóvenes, querían explorar la Habana Vieja y yo me fui a casa donde ya estaban hechas las maletas.

Le hemos dejado a Rosa una bolsa con los pantalones de invierno, que nos guardará hasta que volvamos en el último sprint.

 

 

 

 

233 comentarios

  1. It is perfect time to make a few plans for the longer term and it is time to be happy. I have read this submit and if I may I wish to recommend you few interesting things or suggestions. Perhaps you could write next articles relating to this article. I want to read more things approximately it!

  2. My coder is trying to persuade me to move to .net from PHP. I have always disliked the idea because of the expenses. But he’s tryiong none the less. I’ve been using Movable-type on a variety of websites for about a year and am nervous about switching to another platform. I have heard excellent things about blogengine.net. Is there a way I can transfer all my wordpress content into it? Any kind of help would be really appreciated!

  3. Hello there, just became aware of your blog through Google, and found that it is really informative. I’m gonna watch out for brussels. I will appreciate if you continue this in future. Many people will be benefited from your writing. Cheers!

  4. Have you ever considered about including a little bit more than just your articles? I mean, what you say is valuable and all. However think of if you added some great pictures or video clips to give your posts more, «pop»! Your content is excellent but with images and video clips, this site could certainly be one of the most beneficial in its niche. Fantastic blog!

  5. Hey There. I found your blog using msn. This is a very well written article. I will be sure to bookmark it and come back to read more of your useful information. Thank you for the post. I will definitely comeback.

  6. Does your site have a contact page? I’m having a tough time locating it but, I’d like to send you an e-mail. I’ve got some recommendations for your blog you might be interested in hearing. Either way, great website and I look forward to seeing it improve over time.

  7. Thanks for your personal marvelous posting! I seriously enjoyed reading it, you may be a great author. I will make certain to bookmark your blog and will often come back someday. I want to encourage yourself to continue your great posts, have a nice weekend!

  8. Hi! I know this is somewhat off-topic but I had to ask. Does running a well-established blog like yours take a massive amount work? I’m completely new to operating a blog but I do write in my diary daily. I’d like to start a blog so I will be able to share my experience and views online. Please let me know if you have any ideas or tips for new aspiring bloggers. Appreciate it!

  9. I don’t even know how I ended up here, but I thought this post was good. I don’t know who you are but definitely you are going to a famous blogger if you are not already ;) Cheers!

  10. I’ve been exploring for a little for any high-quality articles or blog posts in this kind of area . Exploring in Yahoo I at last stumbled upon this site. Reading this info So i’m glad to express that I have a very just right uncanny feeling I came upon exactly what I needed. I so much for sure will make certain to don?t put out of your mind this site and give it a look on a continuing basis.

  11. Howdy! This is kind of off topic but I need some help from an established blog. Is it very difficult to set up your own blog? I’m not very techincal but I can figure things out pretty fast. I’m thinking about setting up my own but I’m not sure where to start. Do you have any points or suggestions? Thank you

  12. Hey There. I found your blog using msn. This is an extremely smartly written article. I will be sure to bookmark it and come back to read more of your useful information. Thank you for the post. I will definitely comeback.

  13. Unquestionably believe that which you stated. Your favorite justification appeared to be on the internet the simplest thing to be aware of. I say to you, I definitely get irked while people consider worries that they plainly do not know about. You managed to hit the nail upon the top as well as defined out the whole thing without having side effect , people can take a signal. Will likely be back to get more. Thanks

  14. First off I want to say wonderful blog! I had a quick question that I’d like to ask if you don’t mind. I was curious to know how you center yourself and clear your thoughts before writing. I have had a difficult time clearing my mind in getting my thoughts out. I do enjoy writing but it just seems like the first 10 to 15 minutes are usually wasted just trying to figure out how to begin. Any suggestions or tips? Kudos!

  15. Hi, I do believe this is an excellent website. I stumbledupon it ;) I am going to come back once again since I book-marked it. Money and freedom is the best way to change, may you be rich and continue to help other people.

  16. Do you mind if I quote a couple of your posts as long as I provide credit and sources back to your website? My website is in the very same area of interest as yours and my visitors would certainly benefit from a lot of the information you present here. Please let me know if this okay with you. Thanks a lot!

  17. When I originally commented I seem to have clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now every time a comment is added I get four emails with the same comment. Is there a means you can remove me from that service? Appreciate it!

  18. Hey! I could have sworn I’ve been to this blog before but after reading through some of the post I realized it’s new to me. Anyways, I’m definitely happy I found it and I’ll be bookmarking and checking back often!

  19. Hello! I know this is kind of off topic but I was wondering if you knew where I could get a captcha plugin for my comment form? I’m using the same blog platform as yours and I’m having difficulty finding one? Thanks a lot!

  20. Улучшайте интерьер дома с mehanizirovannaya-shtukaturka-moscow.ru. Машинная штукатурка поможет перемены быстро и без лишних усилий.

  21. Hey there I am so glad I found your web site, I really found you by mistake, while I was researching on Digg for something else, Regardless I am here now and would just like to say kudos for a marvelous post and a all round interesting blog (I also love the theme/design), I dont have time to go through it all at the minute but I have book-marked it and also included your RSS feeds, so when I have time I will be back to read much more, Please do keep up the excellent b.

  22. Hi, i feel that i saw you visited my weblog so i got here to go back the want?.I am trying to in finding things to improve my site!I guess its ok to use some of your ideas!!

  23. Greetings I am so grateful I found your webpage, I really found you by mistake, while I was researching on Bing for something else, Regardless I am here now and would just like to say cheers for a remarkable post and a all round thrilling blog (I also love the theme/design), I dont have time to go through it all at the minute but I have book-marked it and also added in your RSS feeds, so when I have time I will be back to read a great deal more, Please do keep up the awesome jo.

  24. you are in reality a just right webmaster. The web site loading velocity is incredible. It kind of feels that you are doing any unique trick. In addition, The contents are masterpiece. you have performed a wonderful activity in this matter!

  25. I loved as much as you will receive carried out right here. The sketch is tasteful, your authored subject matter stylish. nonetheless, you command get bought an edginess over that you wish be delivering the following. unwell unquestionably come further formerly again since exactly the same nearly a lot often inside case you shield this increase.

  26. Its like you read my mind! You seem to know so much approximately this, like you wrote the book in it or something. I think that you could do with some p.c. to pressure the message house a bit, however other than that, this is great blog. A great read. I’ll definitely be back.

  27. You really make it seem so easy together with your presentation however I in finding this topic to be really something which I think I would never understand. It sort of feels too complicated and very vast for me. I am looking forward for your next publish, I will try to get the hold of it!

  28. Magnificent beat ! I wish to apprentice at the same time as you amend your site, how can i subscribe for a blog site? The account aided me a appropriate deal. I were tiny bit familiar of this your broadcast provided brilliant transparent concept

  29. Howdy! This is kind of off topic but I need some advice from an established blog. Is it very hard to set up your own blog? I’m not very techincal but I can figure things out pretty fast. I’m thinking about creating my own but I’m not sure where to start. Do you have any tips or suggestions? Thank you

  30. Hi there! This post couldn’t be written any better! Looking at this post reminds me of my previous roommate! He constantly kept talking about this. I will forward this article to him. Pretty sure he will have a good read. Thank you for sharing!

  31. I’ve been exploring for a little for any high-quality articles or blog posts in this kind of space . Exploring in Yahoo I eventually stumbled upon this web site. Reading this info So i’m glad to exhibit that I have a very just right uncanny feeling I came upon exactly what I needed. I so much certainly will make certain to don?t put out of your mind this web site and give it a look on a constant basis.

  32. My partner and I absolutely love your blog and find a lot of your post’s to be precisely what I’m looking for. Does one offer guest writers to write content for yourself? I wouldn’t mind composing a post or elaborating on a few of the subjects you write in relation to here. Again, awesome site!

  33. wonderful submit, very informative. I’m wondering why the other experts of this sector do not realize this. You should continue your writing. I am sure, you have a huge readers’ base already!

  34. I loved as much as you will receive carried out right here. The sketch is tasteful, your authored subject matter stylish. nonetheless, you command get bought an impatience over that you wish be delivering the following. unwell unquestionably come further formerly again since exactly the same nearly a lot often inside case you shield this increase.

  35. Hello there I am so thrilled I found your blog page, I really found you by mistake, while I was browsing on Aol for something else, Nonetheless I am here now and would just like to say cheers for a fantastic post and a all round interesting blog (I also love the theme/design), I don’t have time to browse it all at the minute but I have saved it and also included your RSS feeds, so when I have time I will be back to read a lot more, Please do keep up the awesome job.

  36. Great goods from you, man. I’ve understand your stuff previous to and you’re just too great. I really like what you’ve acquired here, really like what you’re stating and the way in which you say it. You make it entertaining and you still take care of to keep it smart. I can not wait to read far more from you. This is actually a wonderful website.

  37. Hey! I know this is kinda off topic however I’d figured I’d ask. Would you be interested in exchanging links or maybe guest writing a blog article or vice-versa? My site discusses a lot of the same subjects as yours and I believe we could greatly benefit from each other. If you happen to be interested feel free to send me an e-mail. I look forward to hearing from you! Superb blog by the way!

  38. Hi! I realize this is somewhat off-topic but I had to ask. Does running a well-established blog like yours take a massive amount work? I’m completely new to blogging but I do write in my diary daily. I’d like to start a blog so I will be able to share my experience and views online. Please let me know if you have any suggestions or tips for new aspiring bloggers. Appreciate it!

  39. Magnificent goods from you, man. I’ve keep in mind your stuff prior to and you’re simply too wonderful. I really like what you’ve obtained here, really like what you’re stating and the best way during which you are saying it. You make it entertaining and you still take care of to stay it smart. I can not wait to read far more from you. This is actually a wonderful website.

  40. With havin so much content and articles do you ever run into any problems of plagorism or copyright violation? My site has a lot of completely unique content I’ve either created myself or outsourced but it appears a lot of it is popping it up all over the web without my authorization. Do you know any techniques to help stop content from being ripped off? I’d genuinely appreciate it.

  41. Thanks for your personal marvelous posting! I actually enjoyed reading it, you will be a great author. I will make sure to bookmark your blog and will come back later in life. I want to encourage you to definitely continue your great job, have a nice holiday weekend!

  42. Greetings from Carolina! I’m bored to tears at work so I decided to check out your website on my iphone during lunch break. I really like the knowledge you present here and can’t wait to take a look when I get home. I’m amazed at how quick your blog loaded on my cell phone .. I’m not even using WIFI, just 3G .. Anyhow, fantastic site!

  43. Hey there would you mind stating which blog platform you’re working with? I’m planning to start my own blog in the near future but I’m having a difficult time choosing between BlogEngine/Wordpress/B2evolution and Drupal. The reason I ask is because your design seems different then most blogs and I’m looking for something completely unique. P.S My apologies for getting off-topic but I had to ask!

  44. Hmm it appears like your site ate my first comment (it was extremely long) so I guess I’ll just sum it up what I submitted and say, I’m thoroughly enjoying your blog. I as well am an aspiring blog blogger but I’m still new to the whole thing. Do you have any suggestions for inexperienced blog writers? I’d genuinely appreciate it.

  45. Крупный учебный и научно-исследовательский центр Республики Беларусь. Высшее образование в сфере гуманитарных и естественных наук на 12 факультетах по 35 специальностям первой ступени образования и 22 специальностям второй, 69 специализациям.

  46. Hey fantastic blog! Does running a blog like this take a massive amount work? I have very little expertise in computer programming but I was hoping to start my own blog soon. Anyway, if you have any suggestions or tips for new blog owners please share. I know this is off topic but I just had to ask. Cheers!

Deja una respuesta

Tu dirección de correo electrónico no será publicada. Los campos obligatorios están marcados con *