La Habana, 11 enero 2017
Siboney de mis sueños:
He venido desde Madrid, sentada junto a un cubano cincuentón y barrigudo.
Le miré de arriba abajo y no lo identifiqué contigo, mi Siboney de Lecuona, que has de ser un cachas, a pesar de tus años.
El cubano me ha puesto en antecedentes de algunas cosas del país. Dijo llamarse Daniel y que era santo. Tú no lo eras. Más bien, te imagino pecador.
¡Qué más quería yo que conocer la santería de primera mano!
Pensaba que el Daniel iba a comenzar por la política, que es lo que procede. Pero no: el tipo comenzó con la religión.
Decidí sonsacarle todo lo que pudiera; lo que pasa es que, como muchas cosas me sonaban a nuevas, no se me quedaron entonces y las he tenido que reubicar, a medida que he ido imponiéndome en el tema, que me ha durado todo el viaje. Ha sido como un máster en santería
A mí siempre me ha ido sobremanera la religión, mi Siboney.
Creo que eso se debe a que he tenido la suerte de nacer dentro de la religión verdadera. Eso da mucha seguridad. Sobre todo cuando piensas en las pobres gentes que han caído en una cultura de infieles.
Luego, cuando te vas haciendo mayor, y conoces a personas estupendas que son impías, agnósticas o ateas piensas que también son verdaderas las religiones que no lo son; e, incluso, que la única verdadera, o sea, la mía, puede dejar de ser verdadera cuando se pone tozuda, que suele ocurrir con demasiada frecuencia.
Daniel, que es peluquero en Valencia, y está casado con una española, iba, tan contento, a La Habana a celebrar su primer aniversario del ingreso en la comunidad santera de los orishas. Allí le esperaba su madrina que le había acompañado el día que se hizo santo. Me dio su teléfono para que acudiera a la fiesta. No fui. Y lo lamento.
¿Y si hubieras estado tú allí, viendo cómo mataban al gallo? ¿Te hubiera reconocido?
Entonces me di cuenta de que en la santería no hacen falta canonizaciones papales sino que, con unos ritos y ceremonias, entras en la corte celestial, sin morir siquiera, lo que tiene su aquél. Ya es un avance.
También me dijo que no te admiten en la santería si no eres cristiano, ya que el cristianismo y la santería vienen a ser como lo trascendente y lo folclórico de la misma mística.
Esto de lo folclórico no significa superficial sino profundo: en todas las culturas el folclore es la expresión externa de las esencias del alma tribal que todos llevamos en nuestro adeene y que, en cada sitio se manifiestan de una forma determinada.
Dios me libre de frivolizar con el folclore.
Tú mismo, Siboney de mis sueños, eres la reencarnación del alma de los habitantes de Cuba mucho antes de la llegada de los taínos y de los españoles.
Eres Cuba. Y estás vivo.
Pero no eres el Daniel del avión. Seguro
Pues parece que en Cuba, con una base religiosa católica, como Dios manda, con la llegada de tantísimos esclavos – que tampoco procede explicar ahora cómo los trajeron los cristianos, ingleses y portugueses principalmente- ellos se sentían desplazados espiritualmente y añoraban sus religiones animistas de África.
En América los bautizaban ipso facto. Aunque no sé para qué se daban tanta prisa, ya que, por aquel entonces, los negros no debían de tener alma. Pero el caso es que los bautizaban. Y los mi pobres se hacían un lío entre sus divinidades paganas y las cristianas. Así que, iban a misa con los amos y luego, en los barracones dónde vivían, seguían con sus ritos ancestrales.
En cuanto pasaron unas cuantas generaciones, la cosa empezó a mezclarse sin aclarar muy bien dónde empezaba lo cristiano y dónde lo africano, y surgió la SANTERÍA, que es como una hipertofia pagana que le ha salido a la religión católica en el Caribe.
Científicamente se llama sincretismo religioso.
(Esto no me lo contó el Daniel, que tiene un cociente intelectual por debajo de la media, lo que le permite ser feliz en su santidad, sino que ya lo sabía yo).
Creo que, cuando el golpe militar de Fidel, la santería fue abolida como las demás religiones y el único Dios fue la Revolución.
Una Revolución puede tener incluso más devotos que una religión, sobre todo si te asegura la comida.
Con el tiempo, a la santa Revolución de Castro se le fue pasando la euforia, principalmente porque, aunque la comida estaba asegurada, era más bien escasa, y la gente comenzó a echar mano de la religión cuando andaba angustiada. Comenzaron a salir religiones como las setas, y el gobierno no dijo nada, porque mientras rezaban no hacían manifestaciones.
Lo que sí me contó Daniel es que Fidel Castro, ya en su vejez, y cuando la religión revolucionaria se le iba de las manos, se incorporó a la santería en un viaje que hizo por África y llegó todo vestido de blanco. De blanco le debieron de enterrar, dicen.
El blanco es el color de los babalawos, que son los sacerdotes de la santería, tanto hombres como mujeres, y son los que hacen la iniciación al neófito y se convierten en su director espiritual y también material, porque le orientan en su régimen de comidas y método de meditaciones y vida.
Luego, en el recorrido por la isla, tuve ocasión de parlamentar con un santero de verdad. Ya te contaré.
Para saber de qué pie cojea el iniciado, el santero le coloca unos caracoles entre los dedos y de ahí deduce su futuro: es como leer las rayas de la mano, en versión orisha.
El orisha- ¿o la orisha?, que no he comentado con las feministas- es una fuerza pura, inmaterial, que solo puede ser percibida por los humanos por una gracia especial. Como la gracia de Dios, pero en cubano.
No tiene nada de particular el método, ya que la diosa Madre, que está representada en la Virgen de las Mercedes, y equivale a la Mari euskaldún o la Pachamama andina, es Yamayá- o Yemayá- la diosa madre del mar, dueña de corales y caracolas y donante de orishas positivos. Es blanca y solo se la puede ver en sueños.
En su vertiente de Yemayá Olokún, es la Virgen de la Regla, patrona de La Habana, y negra.
La Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre, patrona de Cuba, es mulata y encargada de las aguas fluviales . Es Ochún. Debe de tener mucho trabajo porque el agua en la isla es poco potable.
Es muy hermoso el panteón santero, lleno de mitos que no difieren de los griegos o cristianos más que en detalles geográficos e históricos.
Cuando se profundiza en una religión, te das cuenta de que la humanidad reacciona igualmente en todas partes y épocas porque todos los seres humanos tenemos los mismos miedos y las mismas esperanzas.
He hablado con algunos sacerdotes católicos de Cuba y los más intransigentes la denostan; mientras la mayoría se sonríe ante la santería, pensando que no es preocupante ni tiene nivel teológico para considerarla un enemigo.
A mí me subyuga, en cierto modo, el juego de la santería.
Me atrae todo aquello que ha nacido en la oscuridad del miedo. En España se han vivido muchos siglos de represión religiosa y se ha padecido una inquisición feroz por parte de la religión dominante. Cuba ha sido España hasta anteayer.
Yo creo, Siboney de mis sueños, que tú fuiste mi babalawo y me echaste los caracoles de Yamayá por entre los dedos mirándome a los ojos, me encontraste el alma y me enviaste un orisha de ilusión.
¿Será por eso por lo que te busco?
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