9-PLAYA PROHIBIDA
¡Al fin te me has manifestado, Siboney de mis sueños!
Te he reconocido en las aguas verde mar del Caribe…
¡Dios!… Nunca te pude imaginar tan hermoso.
Eres el color más bonito que existe, que se va oscureciendo marineando hasta el horizonte donde marcas una raya oscura que te separa del cielo, que sí es azul.
Tu verde mar no es ni azul ni verde, ni marino verdoso, ni refleja el color del cielo, sin diluirse en él mientras que en la orilla se aclara hasta que revienta en transparente, mezclado con la arena, luciendo brillo de esmeraldas fundidas con turquesas, con irisaciones de alegría y olas que trasmutan el sentir de tu alma a la mía, que se percibe húmeda y libre.
¿Cómo no va a salir de mi garganta un canto de cristal, si tus ojos son agua diáfana , Siboney de mis sueños?
Te he encontrado en Cayo Coco y en Cayo Guillermo, junto a la playa del Pilar.
Yo no conocía tu faceta fluida y cromática capaz de envolverte en ese color caribeño, mi Siboney, que es distinto a todos los colores de los mares que había visto en mi vida.
También hemos de reconocer que yo soy más bien de secano y nunca, hasta ahora, me he sentido absorbida por ningún mar.
Hemos llegado a estos cayos en el taxi de Orlando, que ha estado a nuestro servicio todo el día. Orlando es ingeniero químico y tenía otro nivel intelectual diferente al de Deny, el marido de la estudiante de medicina.
Orlando nos contaba cómo la distancia entre los cayos, que son una barrera formada por islas coralinas y la costa es de unos 18 Km . Estas islas, dada su maravillosa ubicación, están programadas con una infraestructura capaz de convertirlas en un centro turístico de primera magnitud, teniendo previstos hotelitos “ecológicos”, que no rompan la armonía estética ni ambiental.
El problema es que no tienen agua potable y que había que construir una carretera para acceder a ellas. Lo de la carretera ya lo “solucionó” Fidel. Solo que, tuvieron un pequeño lapsus, y no se percataron de que no se le pueden poner barreras al mar, que de vez en cuando, se pone furioso y rompe los diques.
Cuando ocurre esto, el gobierno lo soluciona haciendo un ojo de puente o colocando un tubo enorme que haga el servicio de comunicar los dos brazos de mar. En eso estaban cuando pasamos nosotros.
Con tantos ingenieros como hay en el país, ya parece que han aprendido la lección y ahora están haciendo, en otro cayo un puente vulgaris, como los hacían los obsoletos romanos, con sus pilares y sus ojitos, alternativamente. Cuestan más pero, a la larga son más prácticos. Algunos llegan a cumplir dos mil años. No hay datos de que el Castrismo vaya a durar tanto.
En cuanto al agua, todavía tienen mucho trabajo por delante, ya que la llevan de Morón, con harto disgusto de los dueños del manantial, que ven cómo se seca, mientras que ellos, como todos los cubanos tiene que pagar por disfrutar de las playas, que son exclusivamente para turistas y a las que hay que entrar con pasaporte.
Los habitantes de los pueblos solamente tienen permiso para acceder a estos lugares turísticos en calidad de empleados, con su contrato, que es controlado en cada viaje al trabajo. Si van de recreo, hay que pagar.
¿Pagas tú también, que eres canción y eres color verdemar? ¿O surcas airoso por entre los vientos y entre las olas?
Los cubanos, además de no poder usar su territorio alegremente, pagan por cualquier trabajo que les pueda redondear su “pingüe” sueldo: la señora que te da el papel higiénico en los lavabos de cualquier restaurante, la que vende cucuruchos de maní, la camarera de la cafetería
Eso, sin contar el control exhaustivo de las casas que alquilan a turistas, de las que pagan al gobierno el 75% del precio, y que deben llevar un registro que es examinado diariamente.
La Playa del Pilar, se llama así porque Hemingway fondeaba allí su barco mientras escribía “El viejo y el Mar” y Cuba se lo agradeció poniendo a la playa el nombre del barco. Frente a ella están Cayo Guillermo y Cayo Coco, que no lleva ese nombre porque haya cocoteros sino porque es dónde habitan unas aves, endémicas de Cuba, que se llaman “cocos” y se parecen a las gaviotas.
Cuba tiene una fauna volátil riquísima. Me han sorprendido los pelícanos de la bahía de La Habana, los ibis, y las auras, que son unas aves carroñeras, con un vuelo solemne, como el del nuestro buitre. Esos que recuerde; que ya sabes lo que soy yo para los nombres.
También he disfrutado con algún colibrí juguetón. No he encontrado ningún mamífero… y ningún mosquito, pese a que iba bien pertrechada de repelente.
Comimos con Orlando, en un chiringuito de Playa Pilar, unas verduras salteadas riquísimas. En Cuba, las verduras cocinadas se llaman viandas y pueden contener yuca, malanga, boniato, y otras raíces comestibles que no conocía. Mientras comíamos, Orlando nos contó que no podía heredar una casa de su madre porque ya tenía casa y andaba en litigios con el Estado.
Supongo que, al no disponer de una industria conservera nos daban las hortalizas del tiempo, que al ser invierno, eran más restringidas. Por eso apenas vimos aguacates ni mangos, que estaban en floración.
Sí había “fruta bomba”, que es un eufemismo con el que camuflan a la papaya, palabra que tiene connotaciones sexuales, como el verbo coger, aquí proscrito, y que los españoles utilizamos con demasiada alegría. Porque en estas tierras, el sexo solamente es tabú verbalmente… luego, cada quién se las apaña como puede, sin muchos rodeos ni morales ni sociales.
Utilizan poca patata, pero no tienen inconveniente en añadir a un plato de carne o pescado una guarnición de plátano frito, que llaman “mariquitas” amén del arroz con fríjoles, que es obligatorio y se llama arroz moro. Las ensaladas son como las españolas; incluso ofrecen aceite de oliva para el aliño, cosa de agradecer.
Generalmente se cocina muy bien, tanto las carnes, entre las que abunda la oveja, -que llaman cordero-, cerdo, poco vacuno, y pescado.
La mayoría de los restaurantes forman una red del estado y se llama “Paladares”. Suelen estar ubicados en casas coloniales, muy bonitas, y se come por buen precio.
En este sector debe de estar habiendo una pequeña revolución, a cuenta del turismo, porque no actúan siempre de la misma manera. Los hay de todos los tipos: desde aquellos que controlan a los empleados tanto, que éstos, apenas pueden hablar con el cliente , hasta los que admiten que haya colas en la puerta, mientras los camareros cepillan una y otra vez mesas vacías, si preocuparse de llenarlas con nuevos comensales, ya que les da lo mismo el número que tengan que atender porque su sueldo no va a alterase y siempre es más cómodo trabajar poco.
En Camagüey caímos frente a un comedor social -1554 PROTECCIÓN AL CONSUMIDOR se llamaba-, y decidimos no perdernos la aventura, así que, como no teníamos prisa, nos pusimos a la cola en la calle, pero enseguida pasamos al portal y no tardamos mucho tiempo en entrar.
El comedor era un salón espléndido, con manteles de tela, adónde acuden trabajadores. La comida no difiere mucho de la que encuentras en los Paladares, aunque la carta es más restringida. Pedimos viandas, un codillo de cerdo, con cerveza nacional y postre dulce, que nos salió por menos de 2 €, por barba. Si no fuera por estos locales, los cubanos no podrían salir jamás a comer fuera de casa porque una comida, en cualquier otro sitio, equivale a medio mes de sueldo.
En Cuba hay mucha gente que solo puede hacer una comida al día. La comida principal es de 5 a 8 de la tarde, por lo que nosotros tardamos en coger el truquillo y organizamos una dieta muy fluctuante.
Después de comer en Playa Pilar, Susana y yo estuvimos haciendo snorkel en un lugar casi salvaje, Playa Prohibida, más abrupta que las otras, que eran de arena blanca y fina, y donde había un promontorio de piedras de las llamadas de “dientes de perro”, a la que no se puede acceder sin chancletas, de las que ambas íbamos bien provistas. En cuanto encontramos un caminito, con el agua por la cintura, nos adentramos en un vergel marítimo lleno de algas, conchas, caracolas y fósiles preciosos, de los que llenamos las bolsas. Susana, que es mucho más experta- para eso tiene una hija bióloga marina- sacó maravillas. Yo, casi me quedé con los restos que la marea había dejado por la orilla, que contemplo ahora, mientras escribo.
No volvimos a más playas, en plan bañador, que a las del los cayos de Morón. Pero siempre recordaré que en tu mar turquesa, ¿o tú eres el mar?, los flamencos son más hermosos que en ningún otro sitio del mundo, porque su color rosa y tu azul verdoso son complementarios y por ello, verdaderamente armónicos.
¿Lo sabías, Siboney de mis sueños?
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